SUP Porth Dinllaen
One fine summer day, we packed our SUPs and headed off to Nefyn on the north Llŷn peninsula. We aimed to explore the bay at Porth Dinllaen and the far side of the headland - familiar to us in kayaks, but a ‘personal first’ on our paddle boards. We chose an afternoon with light winds and small tides, with mid-afternoon low water to simplify the planning challenges of this trip.
We launched early in the afternoon from Morfa Nefyn, a gentle breeze barely rippling the waters of the bay. To the north, Yr Eifl’s steep mountain flank disappeared into the sea at Trefor, while Trwyn Dinllaen’s low headland - our goal for today - was pleasingly close to the west. Following the shore, after 1km we arrived in the protected shallow waters of Porth Dinllaen. Here, mid-summer crowds filled the beach in front of the Tŷ Coch Inn, creating a Mediterranean party vibe. Anchored powerboats and splashing swimmers added to the carnival atmosphere.
We spent some time in the bay, slaloming our SUPs between boats and bathers until the final hour of the ebb tide. Heading north past a ruined stone jetty, we quickly arrived at the RNLI Porth Dinllaen lifeboat station in a less-crowded sandy cove. Only 200m from the end of the headland, we paused to check conditions ahead and to choose a route through the rocks. Our timing was perfect - late in the ebb, the gentle tidal stream was dying away, while a light wind was easy to overcome as we paddled around the headland to its west side.
Here along the low rocky cliffs we could see the north coast of the Llŷn peninsula stretching away into the distance, with bays and cliffs to explore another day. We continued past the National Coastwatch Institute lookout station, where volunteers scan the horizon for ‘ships in distress’. A few hundred metres beyond, we arrived at Borth Wen, a beautiful sandy beach enclosed between rocky outcrops. We paused for a break, and climbed a short path to the cliff-top, where the Llŷn coastal path follows the edge of the Porth Dinllaen golf course. So close to Nefyn’s crowded holiday benches, we were completely alone on the ‘far’ side of the headland.
Afloat again, we explored the coast for another 500m to a small shingle beach between rocky shores, in front of a low wooden footbridge crossing the mouth of a small stream. From here, a footpath leads for 500m to the Porth Dinllaen campsite. We reluctantly turned back towards Nefyn, keen to return to the protected side of the headland before the flood tide gained strength. Only one hour after low water, the tidal stream was still gentle as we cruised back downwind on our SUPs. The mountains of the Llŷn peninsula were an impressive backdrop beyond Nefyn, with views to the horizon across Caernarfon Bay.
We followed a route between the headland and Carreg Ddu, where a resident colony of Atlantic grey seals basked in the summer sunshine. We gently passed by, with plenty of distance to avoid disturbing these amazing animals. A few swimming seals curiously approached as we drifted slowly past on our SUPs, back towards the RNLI station. Hauled out on shallow rocky slabs, these seals are completely at home in their north Wales waters and are a precious part of the natural environment. We left them in peace, and returned to the busy inlet at Porth Dinllaen.
A final paddle across the bay took us back to Morfa Nefyn and the end of our journey - a wonderful micro-adventure in amazingly varied coastal scenery. We packed up the SUPs and celebrated our trip with a pint in the nearby Cwrw Llŷn brewery. With so much more to explore on the north Llŷn coastline, we’ll be back again soon!
Overview
This is a popular coastal venue, protected close inshore at Porth Dinllaen from wind and tidal streams. The coastline is more challenging beyond this point, around the headland and along its west side. Light winds and calm seas are essential, and good tidal timings are important - choose a day with small tides, and aim to round the headland close to low water. After Porth Dinllaen, there are no landings until Borth Wen.
When to avoid?
In any fresh onshore winds, conditions can be rough around the headland. During the second half of the flood and for most of the ebb, tidal streams are strong here, creating difficult waves. At these times, it is often impossible to paddle back around the headland against the tide. Beware offshore winds here - beyond the shelter of the cliffs, conditions can be hazardous.
Other options?
Porth Dinllaen and Morfa Nefyn are the most sheltered spots on the north Llŷn peninsula coastline. If conditions are unsuitable here, there are no other local paddling options. On the south side of the peninsula, Abersoch beach is worth checking out.
Ashore?
The Llŷn peninsula coastal footpath from Morfa Nefyn is a great option on windy days, following a cliff-top route around the headland. There are magnificent views, and a close-up view of sea conditions beyond the shelter of Porth Dinllaen. Seal-watching from the rocks near the RNL station promises a great wildlife encounter. Start from the National Trust car park at Morfa Nefyn.
There are many cafes, bars and restaurants in the Nefyn area - highlights include the historic Tŷ Coch Inn at Porth Dinllaen, Cwrw Llŷn brewery in Nefyn, and The Cliffs restaurant in Morfa Nefyn. Heading out of town towards Pwllheli, Y Bryncynan pub serves meals and refreshments throughout the day.